They sell quirky beers with names such as "Buffalo Drool" and "Wheach," a peach-wheat combo. You won’t see their commercials on television, because they do their marketing through fish fries and Facebook, e-mails and street festivals. Their staffers might wear kilts from time to time.
They are Missouri’s craft brewers, independent makers of small-batch beers. In this recession, they are proving they have something more than quirkiness: Staying power.
Craft brewers across the St. Louis region say their business is proving surprisingly resilient as the economy slices into the hide of other industries. Times are difficult, but craft brewers are growing or holding steady.
Good beer, good food and strong connections to the local area are essential.
"I don’t think our crowd has pulled back," said Dushan Manjencich, owner of Buffalo Brewing in midtown St. Louis. The brewpub, which opened in March 2008 on St. Patrick’s Day, is apparently benefiting from the revitalization of the Olive Boulevard corridor. Sales are up this year by 10 to 15 percent, Manjencich said.
Craft brewers — including beer-
brewing restaurants called brewpubs, microbreweries and regional breweries that send beer across hundreds of miles — sold 4.2 million barrels of beer nationwide in the year’s first half, up from 4 million in the same period last year, according to the Colorado-based Brewers Association.
With the overall U.S. beer industry basically flat, craft brewers will take that pace of growth, even if it’s slower than before.
Dollar sales from craft brewers increased 9 percent in the first half of 2009, compared with 11 percent growth in the same period in 2008. Measured in liquid, sales rose 5 percent this year, compared with 6.5 percent growth last year.
"Real good, considering," said Paul Gatza, director of the Brewers Association. "A lot of companies are still growing and expanding distribution."
O’Fallon Brewery in O’Fallon, Mo., is certainly looking for new territories. The company, which saw its beer sales to Missouri wholesalers rise 4.7 percent through June, is expanding distribution into Kansas and is also eyeing other states as far away as Florida.
"It’s pretty much, putting the blinders on and working the plan and not really doing anything different during the recession," said co-founder Tony Caradonna. "People are still coming to the party."
In Missouri, retail sales of craft beers brewed in the state were up nearly 18 percent, according to Nielsen. That far outpaced overall beer sales.
"Consumers are looking to buy locally," said Nick Lake, vice president at Nielsen Co. Drinkers of craft beers "like variety, and they certainly like ‘local,’ and they like to support the underdog."
Craft brands are slowly gaining space on store shelves and restaurant menus, Gatza said.
One reason is that some drinkers are switching from wine and distilled spirits to cheaper beer when they’re at a restaurant, bar or nightclub. In a Nielsen survey released in May, nearly a quarter of wine consumers reported choosing less expensive drinks.
Perhaps most importantly for craft brewers, support from wholesalers and retailers is growing, thanks to the hefty profits that stores and distributors can earn from selling pricey craft beer.
Craft beers represent 3.2 percent of the U.S. beer industry’s case sales and 5.2 percent of dollar sales, according to Nielsen.
Several craft brewers and beer-focused restaurateurs say they have not had to cut prices to attract drinkers. Prices for craft beers have risen more than 4 percent this year — an increase of $1.44 per case in supermarkets — according to Information Resources Inc.
In this economy, that’s "remarkable," said Dan Wandel, senior vice president at IRI. "The craft beer segment has a lot of momentum."
At St. Louis Brewery, the makers of Schlafly beer are watching sales rise in Missouri and across the Mississippi River in Illinois. The company’s beer sales to wholesalers in Missouri and Illinois were up more than 30 percent in the year’s first half.
For St. Louis Brewery — which operates the Tap Room in downtown St. Louis and the Bottleworks in Maplewood — the spike in beer sales in stores across the metro area has helped compensate for flat restaurant sales. The company is in the middle of a renovation at Bottleworks that will allow it to brew thousands of additional barrels of beer per year.
"We’re now a brewery with a restaurant, instead of a restaurant with a brewery," said Dan Kopman, chief operating officer.
That might be a good thing, because bars and restaurants are weathering tough times.
At Morgan Street Brewery on Laclede’s Landing, co-founder Steve Owings said overall business was flat. The brewpub opened in 1995 and focuses on attracting visitors to downtown hotels and conventions as well as sporting events.
Banquets, which represent about a third of Morgan Street’s overall business, are fewer and farther in between these days. Morgan Street’s beer production is on pace to be flat compared with last year, or perhaps short by a couple of batches. With one month remaining in its fiscal year, the company had made 600 barrels of beer. That compared with about 690 barrels in fiscal year 2008.
Square One Brewery near Lafayette Park and its sister brewpub, Augusta Brewing, are boosting production to keep up with bigger sales. Augusta’s production of beer is up about 27 percent compared with last year, and Square One is up 5 percent, said Steve Neukomm, owner of the establishments. Augusta might brew 550 barrels or more this year, he said.
"This year, we’ve actually been running very well," said Neukomm, who opened Square One in 2006. "I’ve been very, very happy. I almost don’t want to say something and jinx it."
Still, people have noticeably cut back on visits to bars and restaurants. That has been a challenge for Kansas City-based Boulevard Brewing, which draws 55 to 60 percent of its business from draft beer sold at such establishments.
Boulevard, one of the biggest craft brewers in the U.S., expects to make about 150,000 barrels of beer this year and is planning an expansion that will add another 60,000 barrels of capacity. But its sales in Missouri are basically flat this year.
The recession has taken a psychological and emotional toll even on folks who didn’t lose their jobs, benefits or even much investment holdings, said Bob Sullivan, Boulevard’s vice president of marketing. "They’ve kind of been holed up in their houses," said Sullivan.
But the new dynamic of eating and cooking at home also creates opportunity for Boulevard, which is paying more attention to grocery chains and other key retailers. Boulevard is putting on beer and food pairings at Schnucks stores. There are also radio commercials — featuring a voice-over by actor Matthew McConaughey — that encourage visitors at Price Shopper stores to grab a package of Boulevard Wheat along with prime cuts of beef.
"Certainly in tough economic times, drinking a good beer is an affordable luxury," said Nielsen’s Lake. Craft beer has "a lot of legs and a lot of room to grow."
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